Raw Materials
Ambrette Seed
Hibiscus abelmoschus
Origin:
Peru
Format:
Concrete
Ambrette seed is a unique raw material: a vegetal musk. In fact, it is often listed as such in note breakdowns. Just as this moniker suggests, ambrette seed concrete does indeed possess a sweet musky aroma with spicy undertones and facets of orris and wine.
Benzoin
Styrax tonkinensis
Origin:
Vietnam
Format:
Absolute
A balsamic resin obtained from the bark of the Styrax tonkinensis tree, benzoin is an indispensable and iconic raw material, coveted the world over for its sweet, balsamic aroma. Benzoin is naturally rich in vanillin, the main odorous component of vanilla, which contributes to its sweet woody scent.
Bergamot
Citrus bergamia
Origin:
Italy
Format:
Essential oil
Like most citrus fruits, the bergamot orange is a hybrid—genetic research has indicated that the bergamot is most likely a hybrid of the lemon and bigarade orange. Production of bergamot is mostly limited to the province of Reggio di Calabria on Southern Italy's Ionian coast, where climatic and soil conditions are favorable to the cultivation of this small, pear-shaped citrus fruit. Bergamot oil is expressed from the ripe peel of the fruit and possesses a citrusy aroma that is variously described as bitter and tart with mild spicy facets and a complex aromatic elements.
Buchu
Barosma betulina
Origin:
South Africa
Format:
Essential oil
Placed in the aromatic family, buchu's powerful aroma is spicy and minty with notes of red berries like blackcurrant.
Cardamom
Elettaria cardamomum
Origin:
Sri Lanka
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the spicy family, cardamom has a strong, unique aroma that can be characterized as peppery and aromatic with strong undertones of citrus.
Citron
Citrus medica
Origin:
Italy
Format:
Essential oil
Citron is one of the original citrus fruits, thought to have originated in India. Some of the most popular and recognizable citrus fruits are, in fact, hybrids of the citron and other citrus fruits including the lemon and several lime varieties. The citron’s name has long been a source of confusion for fragrance consumers. Its common name is derived from the Latin word citrus, which also happens to be the name of the genus. In French, citron means lemon, while the French term for citron is cédrat, which English speakers often assume means cedar. Like other citrus fruits, oil is obtained from the peel of the fruit via expression. Citron essential oil possesses a characteristically dry, zesty and powerful aroma.
Coffee
Coffee arabica
Origin:
Various
Format:
Absolute or CO2 extract
Coffee is one raw material that needs no introduction. Belonging to the gourmand family, roasted coffee beans are a staple of most households and the distinctive aroma of coffee—with its tobacco and chocolate facets—is instantly recognizable.
Coriander
Coriandrum sativum var. microcarpum
Origin:
Russia
Format:
Essential oil
Another spice with a long history of use in kitchens around the world, cardamom belongs to the spicy family. Its aroma is aromatic, green and peppery with slightly zesty undertones.
Eucalyptus
Eucalyptus globulus
Origin:
Spain
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the herbal family and more commonly known as the southern blue gum, this evergreen tree is native to southeastern Australia, though it is cultivated in parts of Europe, Africa and the Pacific. The leaves of the southern blue gum are steam distilled to produce eucalyptus oil, which is prized for both its fragrance and its antimicrobial properties. Its scent is aromatic and camphoraceous with sweet, woody facets.
Pine
Pinus pinaster
Origin:
Siberia
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the woody family, the bracing aroma of pine is richly aromatic and evocative of the intense freshness of eucalyptus.
Frankincense
Boswellia carterii
Origin:
Somalia
Format:
Essential oil or absolute
Placed in the balsamic family, the aroma of frankincense can vary depending on the format. The essential oil is spicy and terpenic with citrus notes while the absolute is woody with pronounced facets of amber.
Ginger
Zingiber officinale
Origin:
Nigeria
Format:
Essential oil or CO2 extract
Belonging to the spicy family, the aroma of ginger is decidely citrusy with peppery and terpenic facets.
Grapefruit
Citrus × paradisi
Origin:
France
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the citrus family, Citrus × paradisi originated in Barbados as an accidental hybrid of the sweet orange and the pomelo. Its common name, grapefruit, refers to the fact that the fruit often grows in grape-like clusters. Volatile aromatic compounds are expressed from the fruit’s peel yielding an essential oil with a sweet, citrusy aroma with bitter, terpenic undertones.
Immortelle
Helichrysum angustifolium
Origin:
Corsica
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the aromatic family, immortelle possesses a bracing herbaceous aroma that is at once peppery and slightly camphoraceous.
Juniper Berry
Juniperus communis
Origin:
Arizona
Format:
Essential oil
Though commonly referred to as a berry, the fruit of the juniper tree is actually a seed cone covered with fleshy scales. Juniper berries are perhaps most well known for their historical association with gin as one of the chief botanical elements responsible for the beverage's distinctive flavor. Belonging to the coniferous family, the aroma of juniper oil is bracing and aromatic with spicy facets and undertones of mushroom.
Lavender
Lavandula officinalis
Origin:
France
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the aromatic family, the beautiful scent of lavender is truly unforgettable. Traditionally a popular ingredient in men's fragrances (and notably one of the few floral notes without feminine associations), the aroma of lavender is floral, fresh and herbaceous.
Lemon
Citrus limon
Origin:
Italy
Format:
Essential oil
Lemon belongs to the citrus family. Its aroma is zesty, acidic and fresh.
Mandarin
Citrus reticulata
Origin:
Italy
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the citrus family, Citrus reticulata, commonly known as the mandarin or mandarin orange, is one of the original 'wild' citrus fruits and one of the three citrus fruits from which all modern hybrids are descended. Like other citrus fruits, essential oil is obtained via a process called expression wherein the outer peel is squeezed in presses. Mandarin essential oil is very sweet with honeyed facets.
Maté
Ilex paraguariensis
Origin:
Brazil
Format:
Absolute
Placed in the tobacco family, the unique aroma of maté can be likened to the smell of hay or tea.
Mimosa
Acacia decurrens var. dealbata
Origin:
France
Format:
Absolute
Placed in the floral family, mimosa possesses a green, honeyed aroma. It is sweetly powdery with a pronounced tea facet.
Mint
Mentha piperita
Origin:
France
Format:
Essential oil
Mint belongs to the aromatic family. Its aroma is green, herbaceous and fresh with peppery undertones.
Myrrh
Commiphora myrrha
Origin:
Somalia
Format:
Essential oil or absolute
Belonging to the balsamic family, myrrh essential oil possesses an aromatic, sweet and spicy. The absolute, by contrast, possesses a licorice-like aroma with undertones of mushroom and cocoa.
Oak, white
Quercus alba
Origin:
-
Format:
Essential oil
Placed in the woody family, oak possesses an aromatic, woody aroma with earthy nuances.
Oakmoss
Evernia prunastri
Origin:
Balkans
Format:
Absolute
Belonging to the woody family family, oakmoss possesses a humid, mossy, animalic aroma that brings to mind mushrooms and damp earth. Deep, rich and leathery, oakmoss is a key component of the classical chypre structure.
Opoponax
Commiphora erythraea
Origin:
Somalia
Format:
Essential oil or absolute
Belonging to the balsamic family, opoponax possesses a somewhat strange aroma that can be likened to the smell of mushrooms. It is very important in orienta compositions where it imparts a mildly sweet aroma with almond-like facets. While the essential oil possesses buttery, vanillic notes, the absolute is decidely more metallic.
Orange
Citrus × sinensis
Origin:
Italy
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the citrus family, orange possesses a zesty, acidic and fruity aroma.
Orris
Iris pallida
Origin:
Italy
Format:
Concrete
Belonging to the powdery floral family, orris possesses an earthy, dry aroma with woody, violet notes. Orris is obtained from the dried rhizomes of the iris flower. After aging for a minimum of three years, the rhizomes are processed and a valuable concrete is extracted.
Oud
Aquilaria malaccensis
Origin:
Asia
Format:
Essential oil
Belonging to the woody family, oud is the name of the raw material obtained from the steam distillation of agarwood. Agarwood is a fragrant, resinous wood that forms when the heartwood of certain species of aquilaria trees become infected with a type of mold. In response to the infection, the tree produces a dark, aromatic resin known as aloes or agar, resulting in a very dark, resin-embedded heartwood. The aroma of oud is animalic and smoky with leathery facets.
Patchouli
Pogostemon cablin
Origin:
Indonesia
Format:
Essential oil
Though patchouli oil is classified as a woody material, it's obtained from the leaves of this tropical member of the mint family. Once processed, patchouli oil possesses an earthy, humus-like aroma with spicy facets and undertones of cacao.
Pepper, Pink
Schinus molle
Origin:
Indian Ocean
Format:
CO2 extract or essential oil
Belonging to the spicy family, pink pepper possesses a fresh, peppery, incense-like aroma with terpenic facets.
Rosemary
Rosmarinus officinalis
Origin:
France
Format:
Essential oil
Placed in the aromatic family, rosemary possesses a camphoraceous aroma that is peppery, coniferous and herbaceous.
Sage
Salvia officinalis
Origin:
-
Format:
Essential oil
Placed in the aromatic family, sage possesses a camphoraceous and terpenic aroma that is slightly herbaceous.
Sandalwood, Australian
Santalum spicatum
Origin:
Australia
Format:
Essential oil
Native to southwestern Australia, Santalum spicatum is a small, shrubby tree with grey-green foliage. Commonly referred to as Australian sandalwood, Santalum spicatum is in reality one of four Santalum species found on the continent. Nevertheless, the term Australian sandalwood has become synonymous with Santalum spicatum, due in no small part to over a century of large-scale cultivation and export of the species. Like other sandalwood species, Santalum spicatum possesses the characteristic aroma of sandalwood though it is woodier and markedly less buttery than both Santalum album (Indian sandalwood) and Santalum austrocaledonicum (New Caledonian sandalwood) owing to its lower santalol content.
Sandalwood, New Caledonian
Santalum austrocaledonicum
Origin:
New Caledonia
Format:
Essential oil
Santalum austrocaledonicum or New Caledonian sandalwood. Native to the islands of New Caledonia and Vanuatu in the South Pacific, Santalum austrocaledonicum possesses an aroma profile that is exceedingly close to that of Mysore sandalwood: rich, sweet-woody with an unparalleled complexity and depth and a smooth, creamy drydown. Moreover, New Caledonian sandalwood is sustainably-grown and ethically harvested to ensure the long-term viability of this truly remarkable material.
Thyme
Thymus zygis
Origin:
France
Format:
Essential oil
Placed in the aromatic family, thyme possesses a bracing, peppery aroma with herbaceous and camphoraceous facets.
Tonka Bean
Dipteryx odorata
Origin:
South America
Format:
Absolute
Placed in the tobacco family, tonka bean possesses an soft, powdery aroma with facets of hay, almond and vanilla.
Vanilla
Vanilla planifolia
Origin:
Madagascar
Format:
Absolute of CO2 extraction
Belonging to the vanillic family, vanilla is so ubiquitous that it's easy to forget that it is the second-most valuable spice in the world—second only to saffron. The widespread use and availability of vanilla in spite of its high cost is a testament to its incredible flavor and aroma. Vanilla is obtained from the pods of the vanilla orchid and has been used around the world for centuries for everything from baking to perfumery. The aroma of vanilla is complex and intoxicating: sweet, boozy and warm.
Verbena
Aloysia citrdora
Origin:
France
Format:
Essential oil
A flowering shrub indigenous to South America, Aloysia citrdora is a member of the verbena family. Though its name may suggest otherwise, lemon verbena is entirely unrelated to lemon. The name is instead a reference to the lemon-like aroma produced by its leaves when bruised. Belonging to the aromatic family, its aroma is quite powerful with green, fresh, lemony notes.
Vetiver
Vetiveria zizanoides
Origin:
Haiti
Format:
Essential oil
It may come as a surprise that the robust, woody aroma of vetiver oil is obtained from the roots of a type of grass. Owing to its pleasant aroma and excellent fixative properties, vetiver has enjoyed a long history of use in perfumery. Its unique woody-earthy aroma possesses a certain degree of freshness with facets of hazelnut and grapefruit.